Maui Travel Guide: Where to Stay, Play & EAT
They say “Maui No Ka Oi” (Hawaiian for “Maui is the best”), and honestly…they’d be right ; )
Don’t tell the other islands, but Maui is my favorite. It was the first Hawaiian Island I ever visited, I spent some time living there, and it’s still my favorite place to travel.
It’s a BIG island with a lot going on…natural wonders, luxury resorts, local towns, and I’ve written quite a bit about it.
Seriously, I’ve got over 50 posts on this blog just about Maui, but this is the best place to start.
Maui Travel Guide
Is It Okay to Visit Maui?
First things first, let’s talk about visiting Maui since the fires.
In August 2023, wildfires swept through Lahaina in West Maui, destroying most of the historic former capital of the Kingdom of Hawaii and taking the lives of over 100 people.
In the wake of the tragedy, the chaos and panic of trying to rescue and locate survivors with minimal infrastructure and resources necessitated evacuating all visitors from the island and stopping the flow of incoming visitors.
As search and rescue gave way to recovery and the logistics of getting all of the displaced people accounted for and temporarily settled, the message went out loud and clear – – – Maui is closed to visitors.
It’s been almost two years since the fires, and I still get questions from people every day asking if it’s okay to travel to Maui yet or if they’re still requesting people stay away.
Honestly, there are a lot of mixed messages, and people are picking up on that. When the tourism bureau, local government, and local businesses are saying something different than…TikTok…who do you believe?
Whatever individual people’s opinions are about the state of tourism in Maui and Hawaii in general (this ranges from thinking there should be more balance and regulation in the industry to wanting absolutely no tourism)…Maui is open for tourism. All of Maui (with the exception of the burn zone in Lahaina obviously) is open for tourism.
Visitors were welcomed back to about 90% of the island (everywhere except West Maui) within a month or two of the fires. But the parts of West Maui “unaffected” by the fires remained closed for a while longer as so much of the recovery efforts were headquartered in the area.
By late March 2024, local Lahaina businesses that survived the fires as well as all of the resort areas north of Lahaina (Ka’anapali, Napili, Kahana, Kapalua) officially reopened to visitors.
So while you may hear individuals voice opinions about the state of tourism in Hawaii and how they’d personally like it to be, Maui is officially welcoming visitors back. And local agencies, businesses, and most locals are getting increasingly more vocal about it…I’ve heard tourism in Maui is still down about 20% compared to this time in 2019.
Okay, so it’s okay to visit Maui. But what does a trip look like? Are you going to spend a lot of money for…less of an experience?
In a word…no. I feel 100% comfortable recommending people return to Maui in terms of being able to have a once in a lifetime trip.
95% of what I would have recommended as an itinerary in July 2023 is still doable.
While the wildfires were completely devastating (in every way), just speaking geographically…the lost areas are actually a very small percentage of the island.
And while rebuilding hasn’t resumed yet in the commercial part of Lahaina (homes are now starting to be rebuilt), businesses in parts of Lahaina that were spared by the fires have been reopening and old favorites have been opening in new spots for well over a year now.
For more information on exactly what to expect when visiting Maui after the fires, read this post >> Visiting Maui AFTER the Fires.
Maui Travel Logistics
Before we get into the FUN stuff, here are the basics you need to know about planning a trip to Maui:
Flying to Maui
Maui’s main airport is the Kahului Airport (OGG). This is where you’ll fly in coming from the mainland and on 99% of interisland flights.
From Kahului, it’s about a 25 minute drive to the Kihei/Wailea area (South Maui) and about a 40 minute drive to the Kaanapali/Kapalua are (West Maui).
I generally fly Southwest to Hawaii (because I have a free companion pass plus for reasons detailed here) and they usually have non stop flights to Maui from Las Vegas (LAS), Phoenix (PHX), and Oakland (OAK).
United Airlines usually has non stop flights to Maui from Chicago (ORD), Denver (DEN), Los Angeles (LAX), New York (EWR), and San Francisco (SFO).
American Airlines usually has non stop flights to Maui from Dallas (DFW), Los Angeles (LAX), and Phoenix (PHX).
Delta usually has non stop flights to Maui from Atlanta (ATL) and Los Angeles (LAX).
Hawaiian Airlines usually has non stop flights to Maui from Los Angeles (LAX), Oakland (OAK), Seattle (SEA), San Francisco (SFO), and San Jose (SJC).
And Alaska Airlines usually has non stop flights to Maui from Seattle (SEA), Portland (PDX), Los Angeles (LAX), and San Diego (SAN).
When to Go to Maui
Good news…there’s never a bad time to go to Maui! The weather is pretty much consistent within a few degrees (air and water temperature) all year round.
The seasons follow the seasons in the northern hemisphere (mainland US) and “winter” means more rain and slightly cooler temperatures. Summer means less rain and slightly warmer temperatures. August/September is when it’s the muggiest/most humid but this is Hawaii and humidity is pretty much nonexistent compared to places like Florida.
Locals are very attuned to subtle shifts in weather/temperatures but whether it’s winter or summer, most resort areas are built on parts of the island that are sunny and dry 90% of the time.
Whale season is December through April with peak season being February.
Any time kids are out of school is high season. The winter holidays (mid December through New Years) are obscenely expensive and book out FAR in advance. Summer is the high season.
January through mid March is technically less crowded and not “high high” season, but it’s still the optimal time to leave cold weather on the mainland to head for warmer weather so it’s not inexpensive.
Generally speaking, I’ve found April/May and September/October to be the best months to find deals.
September/October is my personal favorite time to visit because it’s when I find the best deals on resorts and there are fewer kids/people in general on island since the kids have just gone back to school. They call it “couples season” for a reason.
August through October is also technically hurricane season, but they’re pretty rare. Again, it’s not like Florida.
How Many Days to Spend on Maui
Well, you’ve only got however many days you’ve got, but if you’re wanting the best overall vacation, I wouldn’t suggest less than one week (probably 6 full days, but you could do a lot in 5 full days too).
If you’re short on time (doing a quick long weekend getaway from the west coast), you can still have a great trip just as long as your expectations are more about resting and relaxing. And if you’ve got weeks to spend, you’ll find plenty on Maui to keep you busy.
But in general, if you’re wanting to explore the island and still feel like you’ve had a relaxing vacation, you’ll want at least 6 full days. I also don’t recommend splitting up a one week vacation between two different islands. Just stick to one and really experience it.
Do You Need a Rental Car on Maui?
You absolutely will need a rental car. Hawaii is not an all-inclusive destination where you’ll arrive by shuttle and never leave your resort (I mean you could do that…but it’s pretty expensive just to get to Hawaii so most people want to actually see Hawaii. If you want a cheaper resort only vacation, just go to Mexico).
It’s a pretty large island, and it can take a while to get around. Driving from Wailea to Lahaina can take around 40 minutes. Kahului to Lahaina can take around 30-40 minutes, and Kahului to Wailea can take around 30 minutes. And that’s not to mention destinations on the north shore, upcountry, or towards Hana. So taking Ubers and Lyfts if you’re going from place to place isn’t really feasible (you’re probably talking $100 one way). Maui also does not have a very good bus system.
So you’ll most definitely want a rental car for your stay even if you’re staying in a resort area. I always book through Discount Hawaii Car Rentals. They’re seriously the only company I ever use. They’ll give you the very best prices, you don’t have to reserve with a credit card or pay until you show up, you can cancel and re-book anytime if you find a better rate, and they usually have a special that adds additional drivers for no fee. It’s a no brainer. Click here to check rates for your trip.
Where to Stay on Maui
For me, this is where it all starts whenever I’m planning a trip.
Lay of the (Is)land
Maui is a BIG island.
Most people either stay on the west side (Lahaina, Ka’anapali, Kapalua, Napili) or the south side (Wailea, Kihei, Ma’alaea).
Central Maui (Kahului) is where you’ll fly into and do your grocery shopping.
The north shore (Paia, Haiku) has a local, surfer town vibe.
Upcountry (Makawao, Pukalani, Kula) is where the farm/ranch land and Haleakala National Park are.
And East Maui (Hana) is basically the jungle. It’s where all the waterfalls are, the black and red sand beaches, etc. Most people visit as a day trip driving the “Road to Hana.”
My Favorite Places to Stay on Maui
Maui is a big island, but the two main places visitors stay are the south side (Wailea & Kihei) and the west side (Lahaina, Kaanapali & Kapalua).
People have strong opinions about this one, and I guess I’m no different. I think South Maui is the best place to stay for a long list of reasons.
I’ve hashed it out extensively here >> Wailea vs Kaanapali
But the short list is: 1) Wailea is one of my favorite places to stay in all of Hawaii. Seriously…when I’m planning a “vacation,” this is where I come. 2) If you’re on a budget, Kihei has a condo for you. And great beaches. 3) Geographically speaking, it’s a MUCH more convenient homebase if you’re planning to explore the whole island.
Now don’t get me wrong, I really do like West Maui (you should DEFINITELY plan to explore that side of the island), and every few trips I take I like to stay in Kapalua or Kaanapali for a change of pace, but when I have friends going to Maui for a once in a lifetime trip, I always steer them towards staying in South Maui.
I’ve actually stayed at all of the big beach resorts in Wailea and I’ve ranked them in this post >>The Best Resorts in Wailea
Plus I’ve got these detailed resort reviews:
Four Seasons Maui – Undoubtedly the best luxury resort on Maui
Fairmont Kea Lani – The only all suite resort on Maui
Andaz Maui – Possibly my favorite resort on Maui for the money
Wailea Beach Resort – My go to when booking with Marriott Bonvoy points
Grand Wailea – THE place to stay if you have kids (and avoid if you don’t ; )
And a few comparison posts too:
Andaz Maui vs Wailea Beach Resort
If you’re thinking about staying in West Maui, this post breaks down the different areas and has some comparisons between the big resorts on Kaanapali Beach (Sheraton vs Westin vs Hyatt)
Also, here’s a full review of the Ritz Carlton Kapalua on that side of the island.
Maui Hotels on Points
If you’re a “travel hacker” and you play the credit card points game, here’s a little more info:
Marriott Bonvoy has the biggest presence on Maui. The Ritz Carlton Kapalua and Wailea Beach Resort are the most aspirational properties, but the Westin and Sheraton on Ka’anapali Beach will get you the most bang for your…points. Also, the AC Hotel in Wailea isn’t on the beach, but it has views, a great location, and sometimes the price or lower point redemption makes it a tempting option.
For Hyatt…the Andaz is one of the top aspirational Hyatt properties in the world. But the Hyatt Regency on Ka’anapali Beach is where your points will go the furthest. And the Hana Resort is now owned by Hyatt.
For Hilton…options are slim, but Grand. The Grand Wailea is a Waldorf Astoria (Hilton) so if you win the points jackpot you could cash in here. And when the transfer/renovation is complete ( 2026??) the Maui Seaside Hotel (joining the Tapestry Collection by Hilton) will be a GREAT basecamp for exploring the island).
Condos & Vacation Rentals
If you can’t tell, I lean heavily towards preferring hotels and resorts on vacation, but if you’re looking for a condo for budget reasons, I’ve put together a master list of the best places sorted by areas on the island >> here.
Things You can ONLY Do on Maui
If you’re in the early planning stages (even trying to figure out if Maui is the island for you), I think the best way to figure it out is by looking into the things that you can ONLY do on Maui.
So many things (beaches, snorkeling, golf, zipline, surfing, luaus, etc) you can do on every island. I mean seriously, whatever your “dream version” of a Hawaii trip is…you can get it on any of the main Hawaiian islands.
So to break it down, here are the things you can ONLY do on Maui (plus a few that I think are must dos even if there’s something similar on another island):
Road to Hana
Driving the road to Hana (from Paia to Hana on the east side of Maui) is easily the #1 must do thing on Maui. Block out an entire day and drive the 50 or so miles along the winding road to Hana.
Spend the day hiking through bamboo forests, waterfall spotting, and gazing at black and red sand beaches. I’ve got several posts specifically about driving the Road to Hana including the best stops, which ones to skip, when you should start out on the road, if it’s safe to drive the whole road around, driving etiquette and more.
But here are a couple of things worth mentioning twice. Since March 2021, you now NEED RESERVATIONS TO STOP AT THE BLACK SAND BEACH. That’s Waianapanapa State Park, and you can make reservations 14 days in advance here.
Also, while driving along this BEAUTIFUL road is considered one of Maui’s top attractions, it’s still an actual road and there are people that live in these remote communities that use it everyday. They’re driving to work, taking their kids to school, going to doctor appointments, etc. They’re not on vacation. And while they’re very welcoming, they’re getting increasingly frustrated at the huge numbers of visitors coming to Maui (and the current infrastructure’s inability to handle them).
So a few simple rules: Don’t trespass on private property. Even if you’ve read about a waterfall that you think you should be able to access or heard about a pond to swim in. If there’s a sign and you have to climb around a gate, don’t do it. Don’t park illegally on the road. There are now MANY signs making it clear where you can’t park. Don’t stop in the middle of the road to take a picture of a waterfall, a rainbow eucalyptus tree, a gorge, an ocean view, a mongoose, a rainbow, or anything else. If you’re driving slowly and there’s a local behind you, pull over and let them pass. They have somewhere to be.
More Road to Hana posts:
My Favorite Road to Hana Itinerary
Tips for Driving the Road to Hana
Should You Drive the Backside of the Road to Hana?
Hiking the Pipiwai Trail (Maui’s Best Waterfall Hike)
Visiting Maui’s Black Sand Beach (Everything You Need to Know)
Haleakala National Park
Visiting Haleakala National Park is without a doubt the most unique experience you’ll have on Maui. It’s completely unexpected. When you’re up at the summit/crater, you’ll feel more like you’re on Mars than Maui.
Sunrise is by far the most popular time to visit the park and seeing the sun rise through the clouds at the summit of Haleakala is a moving experience for many people.
But you need to be prepared. It is COLD! Think 20-30 degrees with a strong wind. Bring winter clothes and take blankets. Also, drink plenty of water and have snacks as the quick 23-mile drive from sea level to summit has been known to give some people (ahem, me) altitude sickness. You’ll also need to make reservations to enter the national park for sunrise (3AM-7AM) 60 days in advance here.
Read more about sunrise and sunset at Haleakala here.
Whale Watching
Whales can be seen throughout all of the Hawaiian Islands in season, but they’re most prevalent in the shallow waters between Maui and Lanai and Molokai. Whale season is officially December 15 through May 15, but these whales rarely carry a calendar with them. February is HIGH SEASON though so if you’re a super whale fan, that’s when you want to go. You’ll be able to see them from many of the beaches.
All islands have some form of whale watching tours you can go on, but it seems like for every one whale you’ll see on another island, you’ll see 5-10 on Maui. So if you’re visiting multiple islands, definitely go whale watching on Maui.
Read everything you need to know about whale watching on Maui here.
Snorkeling Molokini Crater
Located three miles off Maui’s southern shore, Molokini Crater has long been Maui’s (and possibly Hawaii’s) most popular snorkeling and diving destination and it’s easy to see why.
The partially submerged volcanic crater with its famous crescent shape is not only home to an extensive coral reef with 250+ species of tropical fish, but it also has an incredible quality of water that boasts up to 150 feet of visibility.
There are some amazing snorkeling spots on Maui that can be accessed by beach or even by boat, but Molokini is completely unique. Because the crater is volcanic rock and it’s miles off shore, there’s not a trace of sand or soil in the water. This is what gives the incredible clarity that’s unprecedented in Hawaii.
Sounds pretty great, right? So what’s the downside? The downside is the number of boats that take snorkelers out to the crater that can make it CROWDED, and many tour providers operate under conditions that can make the experience less than ideal. Not that it’s ever bad, but when you’re paying a premium, you want the best experience possible.
Showing up to Molokini mid morning with a dozen other boats (some with as many as 150 people!) after an hour boat ride just isn’t magical. But don’t worry-I’ve got the scoop on how to see Molokini the best way. Uncrowded.
My favorite way to snorkel Molokini is with Kai Kanani on their Sunrise Deluxe Snorkel.
Read all about it here >> Snorkeling at Molokini Crater
More Posts about Snorkeling on Maui:
Best Snorkeling Beaches on Maui
Best Snorkeling Spots on Maui (Off the Beach & By Boat)
Molokini vs Lanai: Best Snorkeling on Maui?
Upcountry
Most visitors see a brief glimpse of Maui’s upcountry as they’re racing down the mountain after sunrise at Haleakala to get back to the beach but I think it deserves a bit more of your vacation time ; )
Stretching to include the cowboy country of Makawao, the farmland of Kula, the eucalyptus forests of Ulupalakua, and the slopes of Haleakala, in a lot of places, if you couldn’t look out and see the ocean, you’d swear you were in the high meadows of Colorado or the Texas hill country.
With its sweeping ocean vistas, rugged green hills, purple jacaranda trees, mom and pop shops and restaurants, and many farm tours, it’s definitely a place that you’re going to want to spend some time visiting.
I’ve written a full post about the upcountry here >> Things to Do Upcountry Maui
But my short list is:
Breakfast at Grandma’s in Keokea
Shopping in Makawao
Old Lahaina Luau
Not only my favorite luau on Maui, but my favorite luau in HAWAII.
While I don’t think a luau is necessarily a don’t miss item (you know whether or not it is for you), IF you’re going to do one, this is the one to do.
And if you’re going to multiple islands and trying to decide which island to do the luau on, make it the Old Lahaina Luau.
Read my full Old Lahaina Luau review here.
More Posts about Luaus on Maui:
South Maui Gardens Hula Show (My Favorite Budget Friendly Luau Alternative)
Dinner at Mama’s Fish House
As funny as it sounds, this is pretty much the only thing I do EVERY TIME I’m on Maui ; ) By far the most popular restaurant in Hawaii, if you tell 10 people you’re going to Maui that have been there before I bet the first thing 9 of them will tell you to do is make reservations at Mama’s Fish House.
It’s not cheap, but it never disappoints. Read my full review here.
Day Trip to Lanai
I know a lot of people are interested in island hopping during their trip and I get asked a lot of questions about taking ferries instead of planes…well Maui and Lanai are the only two Hawaiian Islands that are currently connected via ferry.
You’ve got two options here: 1) Take the public ferry and spend the day on your own, or 2) do a day trip with Trilogy that includes snorkeling and a beach BBQ on the island.
I HIGHLY recommend doing the excursion with Trilogy. Trilogy’s Discover Lanai Tour is their top rated snorkel tour and one of the best bang for your buck excursions on Maui.
This 8 hour excursion picks up on Kaanapali Beach and cruises over to Lanai in about an hour. It’s kind of advertised as a “snorkeling tour” but it’s actually a lot more.
You’ll spend the day at Hulopoe Beach snorkeling, swimming, lounging on the beach, exploring the tide pools, and hiking to the Puʻu Pehe lookout and then have a big BBQ lunch in a pavilion overlooking the harbor.
If the Trilogy excursion is out of the budget (of you just want to DIY), you can take the public ferry. I STRONGLY encourage you to read the updates on the ferry’s website as the situation is very fluid post fire.
How to Visit Lanai as a Day Trip from Maui
Trilogy’s Discover Lanai Tour Review
Okay, that’s the quick rundown…read my full post about things you can ONLY do on Maui with way more details here >> Things You Can ONLY Do on Maui
More Posts Full of Things to Do on Maui
Visit the Iao Valley (Maui’s Jurassic Park Mountains)
Hiking the Kapalua Coastal Trail
Driving the Kahekili Highway (Maui’s Most Harrowing Road!)
Maui Beaches
In a chain of islands known for having some of the best beaches in the world, I think Maui has the best of the best.
Unlike other islands where a lot of the best beaches are hard to find or don’t have the best swimming conditions, Maui beaches are plentiful, very accessible, and overall very good for swimming, snorkeling, and boogie boarding.
Whether you’re looking for the best beaches for snorkeling, boogie boarding, long walks, colorful sand, or just laying out, you’ll find the perfect beach on Maui. I truly think it’s what makes it such a great island.
Also here’s something to know: There are NO PRIVATE BEACHES IN HAWAII. Yep, even those gorgeous beaches flanked with swanky beach resorts are open to the public. If there are resorts (or homes) built in front of the beaches, they’re required by law to provide a public access point to the beach. But that doesn’t mean they’re always super easy to find ; )
Here’s all the info you need to know about how to find the best beaches on Maui:
Best Beaches on Maui (A Beach for Every Occasion)
Best Beaches in Wailea & Kihei (South Maui)
Best Beaches in West Maui (Kapalua, Napili & Kaanapali)
How to Visit Maui’s Famous Black Sand Beach
My Favorite Places to Eat on Maui
Between living on Maui and many, many trips to the island, I’ve eaten at a LOT of places.
Read through my recommendations here:
My Favorite Special Occasion Restaurants on Maui
Mama’s Fish House: Is It Really Worth It?
My Favorite Maui Itinerary
I’m working on a whole suite of Maui itinerary options for different lengths and interests, but for now check out this one: 4 Day Maui Itinerary It’s a WHIRL WIND, but it’s a pretty good overview of the whole island.
My favorite way to do a trip to Maui is to split my stay and do 3-4 days of exploring while staying at a less expensive hotel or condo and then switch to a fancy beach resort and spend the last part of the trip just vacationing.
What to Pack
You’ll want the usual beach vacation clothes, but a trip to Maui also means a lot of exploring and there are some odd/specialty things you won’t want to forget (do you really need a fleece jacket? Yes ; )
Read my full Hawaii packing list plus tips on what to wear here.
P.S. One of the reasons I’m able to travel to Hawaii so often is by using credit card points. And right now my go to travel card has a GREAT limited time sign up offer.
If you sign up for this Chase Sapphire Preferred card, you’ll get 100K bonus points to use on travel.
These are my favorite kind of travel points because they’re so flexible. You could…
Transfer them to Southwest or United to book round trip tickets to Hawaii.
Transfer them to Hyatt to book a stay at the Andaz Maui (such a great luxury resort!)
Transfer them to Marriott for a stay at one of my favorites like the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, Royal Hawaiian, or Ritz Carlton Turtle Bay.
Or book a hotel through the Chase travel portal with a cash value of $1250.
The 100K bonus point offer is just for a limited time, so if you’re looking for the best travel card, sign up >> here.
P.P.S. Here’s one more really important thing you need to know before your Hawaii trip…
You’ve got your airfare, hotel, rental car and your big activities booked, so you should be good to go, right? Wrong!
Travel is BOOMING in Hawaii and a lot of state and national parks have instituted reservation systems at some of the island’s most popular spots to help manage the crowds and make things a little more sustainable.
That means that there are now over half a dozen sites (beaches, trailheads, etc.) that require advance reservations. And some sell out well before you arrive on the island so you really need to have some sort of a plan.
I recently saw somebody in a Hawaii travel group post in a panic that they didn’t know they had to make reservations for things in advance…they thought they could just show up and “go with the flow.” I was tempted to say, well, “as long as the flow doesn’t take you somewhere that requires reservations, you can!” ; )
But I don’t want YOU to be that person, so I’ve pulled together a list of all the places you need to reserve entry in advance (plus all the details on booking windows, price, links, etc.) and a handful of popular tourist hotspots that book out really far in advance too.
Get that info >> HERE