Maui

Guide to the North Shore, Maui

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Home to big wave, surfers, hippy towns, and so many sea turtles, Maui’s north shore is a region that you definitely don’t want to miss. Even if you’re staying in the resort areas in south and west Maui, it’s worth at least a day trip to see the sites.

There are three main towns/areas that make up the north shore: 1) Paia: right on the beach, this surf town is packed with shops and restaurants 2) Haiku: located further up in the jungle, Haiku is more off the beaten path for tourists, but there’s still quite a bit to see and do 3) Haliimaile: not really a town, but an old pineapple plantation, if you blink you’ll miss it!

So here’s a rundown on what to do, where to eat, and where to stay (if you decide you’re interested in more than a quick day visit):

Things to Do

Hang out in Paia town: This “hippy” town on the North Shore has some of the best shopping and dining on Maui. It’s laid back vibe makes it feel more local than other parts of Maui but it has all of the amenities that make it a fun place to spend the day. Great local boutiques and plenty of diverse restaurants all a stone’s through from beautiful Baldwin beach are a great reason to make the trip up to Paia from your resort. Make sure to stroll up Baldwin Avenue to see the colorful surfboard wall in from on the Maui Aloha Hostel.

Maui Pineapple Tour: Book a tour of the small plantation that produces the Maui Gold pineapples. It’s WAY more authentic than the Dole Plantation on Oahu and you can also combine it with lunch at the Haliimaile General Store across the street and a tour of the Haliimaile Distillery. I recommend booking the morning tour for the coolest weather.

RELATED: Not very familiar with Maui? Read up on the lay of the is(land) and where to stay plus my favorite beach resorts, budget hotels, condos, honeymoon resorts, family friendly resorts, luxury resorts, and boutique hotels plus my area specific guides (including where to stay, eat, and things to do) for Wailea, Ka’anapali, the north shore, and upcountry plus my review of staying at the Four Seasons Maui.

Bike the Volcano: One of the most popular tourist attractions on Maui is Haleakala, a large dormant volcano, and while tons of people ascend to the summit each morning to watch the sunrise, the lucky ones get to follow it up with a downhill bike ride from summit to sea. It’s a bucket list adventure and most companies (my favorite is Maui Sunriders) have their headquarters (where you’ll end your tour) in Paia or Haiku. Read all about biking the volcano here.

Baldwin/Baby Beach: Right in Paia town, this gorgeous white sand beach is usually too rough for swimming, but it’s fun to watch the wind and kite surfers. But the far west end of Baldwin beach has a protective shelf that makes for good swimming conditions plus a strong current if you get further out that makes for a good resistance pool. It’s called “Baby Beach” and on a good day (sunny, no wind) it’s packed with local families.

Ho’okipa Beach: Ho’okipa beach is a resting area for the Hawaiian green sea turtles. Every afternoon they will swim up onto the beach (the far East end) to sun themselves while they nap. A volunteer group has taken it upon itself to protect the turtles by enforcing a perimeter around them, but this is the perfect spot to see a whole herd of turtles (usually around 20) both in and out of the water. Ho’okipa is also a popular surfing beach and on good days you’re guaranteed a show from the outlook where there are usually at least a couple of food trucks parked.

Staying at the Four Seasons, Maui

On my latest trip to Maui, (a girl’s trip with my friend who had never been before) I scheduled a lot of spectacular activities like driving the road to Hana and going up for sunrise at Haleakala. Spectacular, but exhausting. After all of that adventuring, we knew we wanted some time at the end of our trip to unwind with a little luxury. Nobody does luxury like the Four Seasons, so we booked a three-night stay at the Four Seasons Maui in Wailea.

In this post, I’m going to share a travelogue of my stay at the Four Seasons Maui, give you a list of things to do there, and finish up with tips for enjoying your stay.

The Four Seasons Maui is located on Wailea Beach in south Maui. Beautiful, sun drenched Wailea is home to some of the best high-end resorts on Maui and with that comes excellent shopping and dining.

We checked into the Four Seasons on a Monday morning, but the Four Seasons experience really begins before check in. Once we booked, we downloaded the Four Seasons app, and a concierge team member was in communication regarding our stay…mostly to know when we’d be arriving and offering to set up transportation.

Since we were already on island and just changing accommodations, we checked in about 10:30 and were greeted with fresh flower leis, ginger mint lemonade, and chilled lavender towels.

Our room wasn’t quite ready, which we expected, and we had already discussed how to jockey bags so we could find a place to change into suits and hit the pool. But the Four Seasons had a plan for that. They whisked all of our bags away to the “Aloha Suite,” a full suite with showers, lockers, changing rooms, a lounge, a fridge with bottled water, and plenty of charging stations. In less than 15 minutes, we had changed, packed away our clothes, and dug out the beach bags and what we wanted to take with us for the day. We called the bellman back (they had showed us how to reach them on the house phone), and we headed to the pool. Having only been on property for about 30 minutes at this point, I felt like I was already experiencing the world class service the Four Seasons is famous for.

With coverups and hats on and beach bags in hand, we headed out to explore the property and stake out a spot for the afternoon. We settled at the adults only “Serenity Pool” which has got to be one of the best infinity pools on Maui. By 11 AM it was hopping and we could only find a place in the sun. Well let me rephrase that. The attendant only had spots available in the sun. Because one doesn’t search for a chair at a Four Seasons pool, you check in with an attendant and they get you all settled in. It’s nice.

Snorkeling Molokini Crater, Maui

I received two complimentary tour spots on the Sunrise Deluxe Snorkel after reaching out to Kai Kanani regarding media coverage. I had previously sailed with Kai Kanani (in my pre-blog days) and have recommended them to my readers since the beginning of my blog so as always, I only share my absolute favorite companies to you. Thank you for supporting the brands that make Hulaland possible.

After my mask was secured and my fins were strapped to my feet, I waded down the final few steps of the catamaran’s ladder and eased into the water. Sun rays cut through the deep blue water and made it practically sparkle…the tropical fish were dancing all around me.

Located three miles off Maui’s southern shore, Molokini Crater has long been Maui’s (and possibly Hawaii’s) most popular snorkeling and diving destination and it’s easy to see why.

The partially submerged volcanic crater with its famous crescent shape is not only home to an extensive coral reef with 250+ species of tropical fish, but it also has an incredible quality of water that boasts up to 150 feet of visibility.

There are some amazing snorkeling spots on Maui that can be accessed by beach or even by boat, but Molokini is completely unique. Because the crater is volcanic rock and it’s miles off shore, there’s not a trace of sand or soil in the water. This is what gives the incredible clarity that’s unprecedented in Hawaii.

Sounds pretty great, right? So what’s the downside? The downside is the number of boats that take snorkelers out to the crater that can make it CROWDED, and many tour providers operate under conditions that can make the experience less than ideal. Not that it’s ever bad, but when you’re paying a premium, you want the best experience possible.

Showing up to Molokini mid morning with a dozen other boats (some with as many as 150 people!) after an hour boat ride just isn’t magical. But don’t worry-I’ve got the scoop on how to see Molokini the best way. Uncrowded.

Guide to Upcountry Maui

Are you planning a trip to Maui? Yippee if you are! You’re probably thinking about swaying palm trees, golden sandy beaches, and exotic marine life and while the land of the hula certainly has all of that, it has much, much more. The vast majority of space on Maui isn’t the shoreline where so many visitors flock each year, but rather the “upcountry.”

Stretching to include the cowboy country of Makawao, the farmland of Kula, the eucalyptus forests of Ulupalakua, and the slopes of Haleakala, exploring upcountry Maui (including the lavender farm Maui) will give you a different perspective of life on the honeymooner’s isle. This is were the people live and if you spend a day or two here you’ll understand why.

Driving the Road to Hana, Maui

UPDATE: For real time coverage of my latest road to Hana trip with geotags, videos, and pictures of food truck menus, watch the “Road to Hana” highlight on my Instagram account (@hula.land).

Maui’s Road to Hana is one of the most famous (or infamous) drives in the world and in my opinion is the #1 don’t miss thing to do on Maui.

What makes this drive so special? The Road to Hana is over 50 miles along Maui’s rugged north shore and east side with 600+ tight turns and about 50 one-lane bridges. Sound fun? It is! While it has the reputation among many as being a hair raisingly dangerous adventure, driving the Road to Hana is certainly a once in a lifetime adventure but not nearly as treacherous as many make it out to be.

I’ve driven the Road to Hana at least a half dozen times. I’ve done it by myself, with a car full (including a baby in a car seat!), in a Jeep, in a sedan, and even in a full sized pickup. I’ve even done the backside of the Road to Hana (the road past Hana) many times! I’m pulling together everything I’ve learned driving the Road to Hana from the very best stops to make to tips about what to expect. So…here we go!

What to Expect

I’ve already mentioned the 600+ sharp turns and 50+ single lane bridges so you probably already have a pretty harrowing image in your head right? Don’t worry, it’s really not so bad! The entire road from Paia to Hana (and even beyond) is entirely paved and two lanes. The bridges are not two lanes, however there’s an understood rule of letting 6-7 cars on either side pass at a time. In general, while the road is very winding, it’s relatively flat and there are very few drop offs (and there are guard rails protecting the few you will find).

What you can expect along the Road to Hana is plenty of beauty. You’ll see colorful, lush vegetation, wide sweeping views and so many waterfalls. Perhaps the most important thing to understand about driving the Road to Hana is that it’s about the journey, not the destination. Hana itself isn’t much to speak of. It’s a quiet little town with a gas station, a general store, and not much else. So this drive is less about “hurry up and get to Hana” and more about enjoying the adventure.

Now, on to the good stuff.

Stops on the Road to Hana

North shore spots: The Road to Hana officially begins in Paia (a cute little town on the north shore), but don’t plan on spending much time at any spots in the Paia/Haiku area on the day you do the Road to Hana. This includes exploring Paia town, stopping at Ho’okipa overlook, or hiking to Twill Falls. These are all things you should do, but do them on another day. Getting to the north shore from Kihei or Lahaina isn’t all that far. You’ll need the FULL day to see all of the highlights on the eastern side of the island. So grab breakfast in Paia, pick up a picnic lunch, fill up your gas tank, and hit the road!

How to Find the Best Maui Vacation Rentals

One of the trickiest parts of planning a trip for me is finding just the right place to stay. My trips to Hawaii are pretty active and include plenty of exploring so I don’t want to pay a bundle on a fancy beach resort when I’ll be off trekking to the summit of Haleakala for sunrise or hiking through the bamboo forests of Hana, however sometimes a budget hotel can leave a little to be desired when I’m in the mood to lounge at the beach or poolside.

So I’ve got the perfect solution for you…you can save a bundle and still get amazing amenities by staying in a condo or vacation rental on Maui!

Hawaii has a great variety of accommodation options, which makes it the perfect place to try out a vacation rental. Since Hawaii is a major vacation destination, there are of course MANY condos to choose from but besides condos, Hawaii has a ton of “ohanas.” Ohana means family (any Lilo and Stitch fans out there???) and in Hawaii the term is applied to separate living units located on the same property as the main house. Many homes in Hawaii are divided up into multiple spaces (each with its own private entrance, bathroom, kitchenette, etc.) while some have a guest cottage on the property. Because so many homes are configured this way, it’s easy to find a private apartment or cottage on the same property with a local host.

There are several ways you’ll save money on a trip to Maui by staying in a condo or vacation rental. The biggest way you’ll save money is that it’s soooo much cheaper than staying at a resort or hotel. On many islands you can find condos or ohanas either right on or just a block or two from the beach. Plus, resorts can get expensive really fast if you have more than two adults staying in a room. Rental units are perfect for larger parties who can rent an entire house or multi bedroom condo and split the cost. Another big benefit that rentals offer is the full kitchen (or kitchenette depending on what you book). Having a place to cook some meals and a fridge to store snacks and drinks can really save you a lot.

What should you look for in a vacation rental?

Before you start looking around for specific condos or rentals, it’s best to have a general idea of where you want to stay. If you’re not very familiar with Maui, you should read this post to get the lay of the is(land) and decide which area you’d most like to stay.

Consider what you need. What’s important to you? Are you looking for a specific location near a certain beach or resort area? Do you need a full kitchen? Reliable Wi-Fi? A full house or just studio? Be clear about what you want before you start searching.

Read reviews. Before you even consider staying at a property, you should read up on what people who have stayed there have to say. Remember, you’ll only hear the good points from the host but reviews usually give a much more honest story. And when I’m weeding through listings, I also put a lot of weight into the photographs provided. If the photos look professional, it probably means that the owner runs their vacation rental in a professional manner and that is a indication that it’s a good place to stay.

Ask plenty of questions. When you’re seriously considering staying at a specific property, you should correspond with the owner and ask them any questions you may have.

Count the extra costs. Be sure to factor in any security deposits, cleaning fees, and booking fees.

Know the cancellation policy. Each property and owner may have different terms so know what they are before you commit.

The Best Tour Operators for Biking Down Haleakala (Maui’s Dormant Volcano)

One of the most popular tourist attractions on Maui is Haleakala, a large dormant volcano whose slopes are the heartland of Maui. While tons of people ascend to the summit each morning to watch the sunrise, the lucky ones get to follow it up with a downhill bike ride from summit to sea.

In my opinion, biking down Haleakala is one of the best ways to experience the crater and Upcountry Maui while getting a little dose of excitement (van tours can be sooooo boring!). You don’t even need to be in great shape to do the bike ride…it’s all downhill! When I’ve done it, I probably pedaled less than about 10 rotations the entire time (this might vary depending if you’re ending in Paia or Haiku).

There used to be dozens of companies that offered some version of a sunrise/bike tour down Haleakala, but in efforts to minimize the impact of visitors to the National Park, starting in 2018 only four companies where awarded permits to operate road tours within the park.

So while many companies used to take you up to the summit in a van so you could see sunrise, and then put you on your bike at the entrance to the National Park (no bike rides are available WITHIN the park), the options are now much fewer. There’s only one company that offers sunrise tours at the summit with the option to bike down. There’s another company that offers the same but it also includes ziplining. And there’s also the option of going with a company that will take you up midmorning (no sunrise), and put you on bikes just outside of the National Park entrance. Depending on what you’re looking for (and what your budget is), all three can be good options. I’ll detail the three companies I recommend below, but first I would caution to look out for companies who promise sunrise at Haleakala with a bike tour but don’t have a permit. If you go with them, you’ll be watching sunrise from about 6,700 feet (outside the National Park entrance), not the summit. And if you’re going to go through the trouble of getting up that early and trekking all the way up there, you really ought to see it from the top.

Bike Maui: Bike Maui is the only company that has a permit to offer van tours to the summit for sunrise in conjunction with a bike ride down. They’re pretty much the easiest route if you want to see sunrise (as a tour) and bike down. They have options for either self-paced or group tours. For me, I knew I didn’t want to ride down the mountain with a pack of people and be confined to where the guide chose to stop and their time constraints. So I definitely prefer a self paced tour. Many people pick the group led tour because they think they’ll be on their own if something happens along the way on a self-paced ride. Don’t let that be a deciding factor. Bike Maui will provide you with DETAILED instructions for how to contact them if you need roadside assistance (this covers everything from a flat tire to being too tired to finish to having one too many margaritas at lunch). They’ll also provide you with everything you need (i.e. full-face helmets, rain suits, backpacks, locks, and maps). I would suggest bringing water, sunscreen, and a jacket (especially if you’re doing the sunrise tour, in which case you’ll want PLENTY of layers). The only thing I dislike about Bike Maui is that on the self guided tour you end your ride in Haiku instead of Paia. It’s a cute little town on the north shore (more inland), although not as walkable and appealing as Paia. Guests must be at least 12 years old for this tour. Pickup from resort areas in West and South Maui is included in guided tours and is an additional $25/person for self guided tours. Self guided sunrise tours can be booked starting at $160/person (with an online early booking discount). Guided tours (with stops at Kula Marketplace and Paia) can be booked starting at $200/person. Read more reviews and search for discounts here.

Top 20 Adventure Activities on Maui

If sitting on the beach and soaking up the sun is not your idea of fun, there are plenty of activities to keep you busy on Maui. From water sports to full day adventure excursions, here are some of the top adventure activities to do on Maui:

1.Snorkel Molokini & Turtle Town. Molokini Crater is Maui’s famed snorkeling spot and a short boat ride away from South Maui. This crescent shaped crater creates a protected refuge and ideal spot for snorkeling with countless species of fish and some of the most impressive coral formations in Hawaii. Boat trips to Molokini usually also include a stop at Turtle Town close to Makena. I suggest going with Kai Kanani on their sunrise cruise. They leave from Makena Beach, which is the closest point to Molokini so they’ll get you there fast and you’ll have plenty of time in the water before the other big boats start showing up for the day. Read more about snorkeling on Maui here.

2.Snorkel Honolua Bay. During the summer months, Honolua Bay (north of Kapalua in West Maui) has some of the best snorkeling in Maui (during the winter, it’s one of Maui’s most legendary surf spots). While the bay is accessible from the shore (more on that below), a lot of snorkeling excursions leaving out of West Maui (especially those that operate from Ka’anapali Beach) will include stops here. If you come by car, check out the overlook before you pull off down the trail and park. The entrance to the bay is rocky so you’ll need water shoes for sure. Read more on Maui snorkeling here.

3.Sunrise at Haleakala. Haleakala’s summit hits 10,000 feet making it an excellent place to watch the sunrise. Actually, this is one of THE most popular things to do on Maui, but it’s not for the faint of heart. The summit is a good 2-hour drive from most of the Maui resort areas and you’ll need to be up there well before sunrise to stake out a spot so depending on the time of you, you may need to leave your resort in the wee hours of the morning to make the trip. But it is spectacular. And soooooooo cold. Like seriously cold, not just cold by Hawaii standards. Bundle up. You must make reservations to go up for sunrise 60 days in advance (they sell out in minutes) through the National Park. Seriously, create an account and get logged in before spots become available or you may miss out. They also release a hand full of last minute tickets at 7AM (HST) two days in advance. Once you have your tickets, you still have to pay the entrance fee ($25/vehicle) at the gates.

4.Hike the Crater. The summit of Haleakala offers a landscape that is quite “other worldly.” You may think you’re on Mars instead of Earth. There are many hiking trails that traverse the landscape of the crater. From the visitor’s center, you can hike down into the crater on the Sliding Sands trail. It’s 11 miles all the way across, but you come to the first overlook after ½ mile. Find more information on hiking in the national park here.

5.Drive the Road to Hana. Tales of the harrowing drive along narrow and windy roads along cliffs, through jungles, and past waterfalls have only built up the folklore surrounding Hawaii’s most popular drive, the Road to Hana. And taking part is practically a right of passage when visiting Maui. Set out early, stopping to grab a picnic lunch in Paia town and see all the sights along the way. Your journey past rainbow eucalyptus trees, bamboo forests, black and red sand beaches, 400 foot waterfalls, and Hana town itself will give you a taste of the real Hawaii. Old Hawaii. Of all the things to do in Maui, you really shouldn’t miss this one. Read this post about my favorite stops on the Road to Hana.

Maui

What to Expect

Stops on the Road to Hana

What should you look for in a vacation rental?

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