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There’s a Cowboy Town in Upcountry Maui and It’s One of My Favorite Places on the Island

A cowboy town…in Hawaii? I promise I didn’t make it up…Makawao is absolutely real, absolutely charming, and absolutely worth a morning of your Maui trip even if the idea never once crossed your mind before.

Most visitors to Maui spend their days rotating between the beach, the pool, and whatever restaurant is within walking distance, and look… I get it. That’s a perfectly good vacation. But if you’ve got even a passing curiosity about seeing a part of Maui that feels nothing like the resort bubbles of Wailea or Ka’anapali, Makawao is the place. 

It’s one of my favorite spots on the whole island and I’d put it on any Maui itinerary without hesitation.

Spending the Day in Makawao

Makawao sits on the slopes of Haleakala in upcountry Maui, with one foot in its cowboy past and another in a thriving arts and boutique community. It’s about a 30-40 minute drive from the resort areas of South Maui and sits at an elevation that makes the air noticeably cooler and crisper than the coast below.

Since the late 19th century, paniolo have wrangled cattle across Maui’s wide-open upland fields, and that heritage is still very much alive in Makawao. Paniolo, by the way, is the Hawaiian word for cowboy.

Many of Makawao’s original storefronts are still standing… historic step-gabled buildings that are at least a century old, now housing modern boutiques, cafes, art galleries, and specialty shops…making it one of the most charming towns in Hawaii.  

The center of town is essentially one main intersection where Baldwin Avenue and Makawao Avenue cross, and most of what you want to do is within easy walking distance of that corner. 

Plan to spend two to three hours here, and then use the rest of the day to explore the surrounding upcountry area.

Things to Do in Makawao & Nearby

The shopping is genuinely excellent and unlike anything you’ll find in the tourist zones. This is not a flip-flop-and-fridge-magnet situation. Makawao’s boutiques are well-curated, and have more of a western flair than the typical bikini shops you’ll find down by the beach. 

My favorites are Driftwood, Pink By Nature, and the Mercantile. 

Komoda Store and Bakery is a must stop. Opened in 1916, Komoda is Maui’s oldest bakery and is famous for its cream puffs, sugar-dusted malasadas, and the beloved stick donuts that people line up for before the bakery even opens. Get there early because the good stuff sells out. 

Espresso Mafia for coffee. What started as a community-loved coffee food truck grew into a bustling cafe, and you’d be hard pressed to find a better espresso pour on Maui. The honey cream latte made with local honey and house-made vanilla is my favorite. 

The drive up Olinda Road is a bonus that a lot of people don’t know about. Right at the center of Makawao, Olinda Road heads uphill into some of the most stunning rural scenery on the island… rolling green pastureland, eucalyptus forests, and sweeping views back down toward the coast. You don’t need a destination. Just drive up a few miles and let yourself be completely surprised by how beautiful it is up there. It’s one of those only-in-Maui moments that costs nothing and is completely unforgettable.

Maui Alpaca is just a short drive from town and makes a perfect add-on to a Makawao morning. The eight-acre farm on the slopes of Haleakala is home to a herd of genuinely delightful alpacas and a crew of absurdly soft angora bunnies, and the whole experience is as fun for adults as it is for kids. I have a full review of Maui Alpaca here if you want all the details, but the short version is: go. You will not regret it.

Ocean Vodka Distillery is another great upcountry add-on. Ocean Vodka produces handcrafted, locally made Hawaiian spirits right in the heart of Maui’s pineapple region, and they offer tasting tours that are well worth your time. It’s a fun stop and a great place to pick up a bottle to bring home.

The Maui Pineapple Tour in nearby Hali’imailea rounds out a perfect upcountry day. I think it’s one of the best farm tours in Hawaii. You can read my full post about it here

The thing I love most about Makawao is that it doesn’t feel touristy. Despite the fact that it has great shopping, great food, and genuinely interesting things to do, it has somehow maintained a local, unhurried energy that’s increasingly rare to find on Maui. 

The people here are actual residents going about their actual lives, the shops are owned by people who live in the community, and the whole place feels like it exists for itself rather than for tourism. That’s a rarer thing than it sounds on an island that sees millions of visitors a year.

If you’re spending any time at all in upcountry Maui… heading to Haleakala, doing O’o Farms, visiting the lavender farm in Kula… build a Makawao morning into your day. Get to Komoda early, grab a coffee at Espresso Mafia, wander the shops, drive up Olinda Road and just take in the view for a minute.

I’ve made it my job for the last 10 years to explore Maui.

And after hundreds of beach days, rainforest hikes, snorkeling trips, and reconnaissance missions to find the best hotels… and mai tais… I put everything I know into one place.

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Get access to my Maui digital map and itineraries here