Maui’s north shore is one of my favorite parts of the island, but most visitors treat as a corridor instead of a destination…a place they rush through on their way to Hana. 

But there’s a whole day’s worth of stuff to do out here, some of the best food on Maui, beaches that don’t have a fraction of the crowds you’ll find in Kihei or Ka’anapali, and a vibe that feels more like the real Maui than anything you’ll find around a resort pool. It deserves way more than a gas and coffee stop.

Here’s everything worth doing.

Things to Do in Paia & Maui’s North Shore

Paia sits on Maui’s north shore about five miles east of the airport in Kahului, right at the start of the Hana Highway. It’s a small town by any measure… one main street, a handful of side streets, colorful old buildings that look like they haven’t changed much since the plantation era. 

But what it lacks in size it makes up for completely in character.

Paia has its roots in the old plantation days and evolved through a hippie wave in the 60s and 70s before becoming the unofficial capital of windsurfing in the 80s and 90s. That layered history gives it a personality that’s completely its own. Old-school locals, pro surfers, artists, tourists, and everyone in between all coexist here in a way that just works.

Beyond the town itself, the north shore stretches east toward Haiku and beyond, with beaches, lookouts, farm stands, and experiences scattered along the way. A full north shore day could easily start at Kanaha Beach near the airport and end at Twin Falls, with Paia in the middle.

What to Do and See

Ho’okipa Beach Park is the first stop I’d send anyone to on the north shore. This is Maui’s “big wave” surf spot. But honestly, the reason most visitors love it is because there are almost always sea turtles resting on the beach. 

When you pull into Ho’okipa, try to park on top at the overlook and leave the parking down below for the surfers and locals. It’s where you’ll have the best viewing point for watching the surfers. 

When you’ve had your fill of that, make the short walk down the road to the beach. A local volunteer group sets up here daily to make sure the turtles are protected and the best place to see them is from the rock wall up above by the picnic tables. You can walk down to the sand too, but you can’t get very close. 

Tavares Bay (Kuau Bay) is a quieter spot closer to Paia that’s worth knowing about specifically for turtle sightings. If seeing turtles up close in a more relaxed, less crowded setting sounds appealing, make a note of this one. You’ll know you’re in the right spot when you see the house with the blue tiled roof. During the winter when the waves are big, turtles are less likely to come here though.

Baldwin Beach is the best spot for spotting windsurfers, and the far western end (Baby Beach) is your best spot for swimming since it’s protected. 

Kanaha Beach on the other end of the north shore near Kahului is another good option, especially if you’re interested in watching windsurfers and kitesurfers in action. I think it’s one of the best spots on Maui for beach photos because you get the West Maui Mountains in th background. Not usually good swimming conditions though. 

The Surfboard Wall at Aloha Surf Hostel is a great photo stop and worth a couple minutes of your time. 

Twin Falls deserves its own post, but I’ll mention it here as well. Most people make this one of their first stops on the Road to Hana, but if you have the time, it’s so much better to do it on another day. It’s only a 20 minute drive from Paia and it’ll leave your Hana day much less rushed. 

Do it early before the crowds show up (by 9AM). 

Maui Pineapple Tour in Hali’imaile is another great add-on if you want to break up a north shore day with something a little different. Getting a freshly cut pineapple straight from the field is one of those experiences that sounds simple and ends up being legitimately memorable. More details here. 

Paia is one of my favorite spots for local, boutique shopping. Skip the obvious tourist stuff and head straight for Wings and Nuage Bleu, which are my two favorite stores in town. Most of the selection in Wings is made on Maui by local artists (I think they have the best jewelry on the island – it’s where I started my collection of gold seashell bangles over 10 years ago). 

And Nuage Bleu has a great line of leather purses and sandals that are made on Maui. 

Where to Eat

Paia is practically lined with shops and restaurants so you won’t have trouble finding somewhere good to eat, but these are some of my favorite spots on this side of the island: 

Mama’s Fish House is the headliner and for good reason. For the setting and vibes alone, I think it’s the most special restaurant on Maui. But they don’t get by just on that…the food is seriously good. The menu tells you which fisherman caught your fish and where they caught it that morning. Entrees run around $70 and reservations need to be made months in advance. I mean MONTHS. 

Paia Fish Market is the casual counterpart and one of my most easily recommendable spots on Maui for fresh fish at a good price. It’s order-at-the-counter, squeeze-in-wherever-you-can-find-a-seat, and completely delicious. The fish tacos are legendary but their mahi mahi is my favorite. Budget-friendly, no reservations, and almost always worth a short wait.

Belle Surf Cafe is my go-to for a north shore breakfast or brunch. The vibe is exactly right… hidden away, relaxed, good coffee, good food.

Baked on Maui is a must if you love pastries and desserts. It’s kind of hidden away in an old cannery in Haiku, but I think it’s worth the drive. They also do a full breakfast. 

Jaws Country Store out past Haiku is a great little pitstop, especially if you’re doing a longer north shore day and going all the way to Twin Falls. Cold drinks, local snacks, and a low-key local vibe that feels a million miles away from the resort scene. They have a couple of food trucks and I love their acai bowls. 

 

I’ve made it my job for the last 10 years to explore Maui.

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Get access to my Maui digital map and itineraries here.