Hawaii

Molokai: The Most Hawaiian Island

This trip to Molokai was sponsored by Maui Nui (the tourism board for Maui County), which means all of my expenses were paid for and the itinerary was organized for me. As always, I only recommend my absolute favorites to you. Thank you for supporting the brands that make Hulaland possible.

After spending four days on the Hawaiian island of Molokai (often called the most Hawaiian of the Hawaiian Islands), I feel more aware and appreciative of Hawaii and its culture than ever before. Countless trips (and even a brief time actually living in Hawaii) didn’t expose me to the type of uniquely Hawaiian experiences that I was able to participate in during my short time on Molokai.

As a visitor, I’ve never so fully experienced “aloha” anywhere else in Hawaii. Aloha isn’t the waterfalls. It’s not the beaches or the rainbows or the lush green mountains. It’s not the scent of plumeria wafting over you while you relax in a hammock. Aloha isn’t a mai tai. Aloha is the spirit of the people. And there’s nowhere in Hawaii that a visitor is embraced more fully with aloha than Molokai.

After about my second day on Molokai, I realized that the things I was learning, seeing and experiencing on Molokai were all connected to the people of Molokai. Unlike other places in Hawaii where I remember “things I did,” my memories on Molokai are of the people I met. Every experience is connected with a person, sharing their knowledge, their way of life, their culture, and their appreciation for their island.

This is what makes Molokai different than any other Hawaiian Island. It’s what makes it special. Molokai is the fifth largest Hawaiian Island, situated between Maui and Oahu. In the morning, you can watch the sun come up over Maui, and in the evening you can see the lights of Honolulu. But it’s a world away from either island.

What You Should Know Before You Go

How to get there: By air is the only way to get to Molokai (there is no longer ferry service available from Maui). Mokulele Airlines and Makani Kai both offer numerous flights a day to Molokai (MKK) from both Maui and Oahu. The flight is only about 20 minutes and leaves out of the commuter terminal which means no TSA (show up 30 minutes before your flight, no hectic chaos, no rules about liquids, etc.). The planes are small (only 8-9 passengers), but the views are incredible.

Everything is closed on Sundays: Everything. It’s not a good day to arrive on the island, and honestly if you’re only going to be there for a few days, I would schedule it so you’re not there on Sunday.

There are no stoplights: Not one! They just installed a flashing crosswalk light by one of the schools (and I heard it was the talk of the island), but that’s it. This gives you an idea of the size and scope of the island and also how much traffic there is.

Watch out for deer: There are so many deer on Molokai, especially out towards the west end so be very careful when driving at dusk. Drive slow!

Everybody knows everybody: Unlike the other Hawaiian Islands where there’s such an influx of transplants and newcomers, Molokai is an extremely tight knit community. So tight knit that if they don’t know you, they know you’re a visitor. But everyone is so friendly and welcoming! So many times walking through town people would stop and ask me where I was from and how I was enjoying my stay. That just doesn’t happen anywhere else. It was also fun when with our tour guides to see everyone greet everybody when we went into a store or restaurant. If you’re from a small town where everyone has known you since were a child, you’ll be familiar with the vibe. If you’re not, it’s neat to see firsthand.

This is “old Hawaii:” Compared to the other islands, Molokai is incredibly undeveloped. This of course, is part of its charm, but it can also pose some logistical challenges if you’re visiting. There are a couple small grocery stores and markets, but don’t expect a Target, Walmart, or Costco. There are plenty of restaurants, but nothing too fancy. You’ll have everything you need on Molokai, but it’s good to go in with the right expectations.

How Long Should You Spend on Molokai?

Molokai has a reputation for being boring or having nothing to do. By the time you finish reading this post, hopefully I’ll have debunked that myth but it still doesn’t compare to the four main Hawaiian Islands. I think three days is the perfect amount of time to visit Molokai, and while I don’t normally recommend spending so little time on an island because of travel time, the short flight here plus not having to go through TSA means that you have most of your travel days free. I would recommend a day for touring Kalaupapa, a day for the Halawa Valley, and either spending a day with Molokai Outdoors (if you haven’t used them for day 1 or 2) or spending a day filling in with what interests you.

I also recommend sandwiching in your time on Molokai in the middle of your trip. For example, I wouldn’t recommend flying straight to Molokai from the mainland because if your flight to Maui (or Oahu) is delayed, you’ll probably end up missing your connection. Fly to Maui and spend a few days, then hop over to Molokai and end your trip back on Maui for a bit before flying home.

Guide to the North Shore, Maui

This post may contain some affiliate links, which means I’ll make a little money on anything you choose to purchase. But of course, I only recommend my absolute favorites to you. Thank you for supporting the brands that make Hulaland possible.

Home to big wave, surfers, hippy towns, and so many sea turtles, Maui’s north shore is a region that you definitely don’t want to miss. Even if you’re staying in the resort areas in south and west Maui, it’s worth at least a day trip to see the sites.

There are three main towns/areas that make up the north shore: 1) Paia: right on the beach, this surf town is packed with shops and restaurants 2) Haiku: located further up in the jungle, Haiku is more off the beaten path for tourists, but there’s still quite a bit to see and do 3) Haliimaile: not really a town, but an old pineapple plantation, if you blink you’ll miss it!

So here’s a rundown on what to do, where to eat, and where to stay (if you decide you’re interested in more than a quick day visit):

Things to Do

Hang out in Paia town: This “hippy” town on the North Shore has some of the best shopping and dining on Maui. It’s laid back vibe makes it feel more local than other parts of Maui but it has all of the amenities that make it a fun place to spend the day. Great local boutiques and plenty of diverse restaurants all a stone’s through from beautiful Baldwin beach are a great reason to make the trip up to Paia from your resort. Make sure to stroll up Baldwin Avenue to see the colorful surfboard wall in from on the Maui Aloha Hostel.

Maui Pineapple Tour: Book a tour of the small plantation that produces the Maui Gold pineapples. It’s WAY more authentic than the Dole Plantation on Oahu and you can also combine it with lunch at the Haliimaile General Store across the street and a tour of the Haliimaile Distillery. I recommend booking the morning tour for the coolest weather.

RELATED: Not very familiar with Maui? Read up on the lay of the is(land) and where to stay plus my favorite beach resorts, budget hotels, condos, honeymoon resorts, family friendly resorts, luxury resorts, and boutique hotels plus my area specific guides (including where to stay, eat, and things to do) for Wailea, Ka’anapali, the north shore, and upcountry plus my review of staying at the Four Seasons Maui.

Bike the Volcano: One of the most popular tourist attractions on Maui is Haleakala, a large dormant volcano, and while tons of people ascend to the summit each morning to watch the sunrise, the lucky ones get to follow it up with a downhill bike ride from summit to sea. It’s a bucket list adventure and most companies (my favorite is Maui Sunriders) have their headquarters (where you’ll end your tour) in Paia or Haiku. Read all about biking the volcano here.

Baldwin/Baby Beach: Right in Paia town, this gorgeous white sand beach is usually too rough for swimming, but it’s fun to watch the wind and kite surfers. But the far west end of Baldwin beach has a protective shelf that makes for good swimming conditions plus a strong current if you get further out that makes for a good resistance pool. It’s called “Baby Beach” and on a good day (sunny, no wind) it’s packed with local families.

Ho’okipa Beach: Ho’okipa beach is a resting area for the Hawaiian green sea turtles. Every afternoon they will swim up onto the beach (the far East end) to sun themselves while they nap. A volunteer group has taken it upon itself to protect the turtles by enforcing a perimeter around them, but this is the perfect spot to see a whole herd of turtles (usually around 20) both in and out of the water. Ho’okipa is also a popular surfing beach and on good days you’re guaranteed a show from the outlook where there are usually at least a couple of food trucks parked.

Staying at the Four Seasons, Maui

On my latest trip to Maui, (a girl’s trip with my friend who had never been before) I scheduled a lot of spectacular activities like driving the road to Hana and going up for sunrise at Haleakala. Spectacular, but exhausting. After all of that adventuring, we knew we wanted some time at the end of our trip to unwind with a little luxury. Nobody does luxury like the Four Seasons, so we booked a three-night stay at the Four Seasons Maui in Wailea.

In this post, I’m going to share a travelogue of my stay at the Four Seasons Maui, give you a list of things to do there, and finish up with tips for enjoying your stay.

The Four Seasons Maui is located on Wailea Beach in south Maui. Beautiful, sun drenched Wailea is home to some of the best high-end resorts on Maui and with that comes excellent shopping and dining.

We checked into the Four Seasons on a Monday morning, but the Four Seasons experience really begins before check in. Once we booked, we downloaded the Four Seasons app, and a concierge team member was in communication regarding our stay…mostly to know when we’d be arriving and offering to set up transportation.

Since we were already on island and just changing accommodations, we checked in about 10:30 and were greeted with fresh flower leis, ginger mint lemonade, and chilled lavender towels.

Our room wasn’t quite ready, which we expected, and we had already discussed how to jockey bags so we could find a place to change into suits and hit the pool. But the Four Seasons had a plan for that. They whisked all of our bags away to the “Aloha Suite,” a full suite with showers, lockers, changing rooms, a lounge, a fridge with bottled water, and plenty of charging stations. In less than 15 minutes, we had changed, packed away our clothes, and dug out the beach bags and what we wanted to take with us for the day. We called the bellman back (they had showed us how to reach them on the house phone), and we headed to the pool. Having only been on property for about 30 minutes at this point, I felt like I was already experiencing the world class service the Four Seasons is famous for.

With coverups and hats on and beach bags in hand, we headed out to explore the property and stake out a spot for the afternoon. We settled at the adults only “Serenity Pool” which has got to be one of the best infinity pools on Maui. By 11 AM it was hopping and we could only find a place in the sun. Well let me rephrase that. The attendant only had spots available in the sun. Because one doesn’t search for a chair at a Four Seasons pool, you check in with an attendant and they get you all settled in. It’s nice.

Snorkeling Molokini Crater, Maui

I received two complimentary tour spots on the Sunrise Deluxe Snorkel after reaching out to Kai Kanani regarding media coverage. I had previously sailed with Kai Kanani (in my pre-blog days) and have recommended them to my readers since the beginning of my blog so as always, I only share my absolute favorite companies to you. Thank you for supporting the brands that make Hulaland possible.

After my mask was secured and my fins were strapped to my feet, I waded down the final few steps of the catamaran’s ladder and eased into the water. Sun rays cut through the deep blue water and made it practically sparkle…the tropical fish were dancing all around me.

Located three miles off Maui’s southern shore, Molokini Crater has long been Maui’s (and possibly Hawaii’s) most popular snorkeling and diving destination and it’s easy to see why.

The partially submerged volcanic crater with its famous crescent shape is not only home to an extensive coral reef with 250+ species of tropical fish, but it also has an incredible quality of water that boasts up to 150 feet of visibility.

There are some amazing snorkeling spots on Maui that can be accessed by beach or even by boat, but Molokini is completely unique. Because the crater is volcanic rock and it’s miles off shore, there’s not a trace of sand or soil in the water. This is what gives the incredible clarity that’s unprecedented in Hawaii.

Sounds pretty great, right? So what’s the downside? The downside is the number of boats that take snorkelers out to the crater that can make it CROWDED, and many tour providers operate under conditions that can make the experience less than ideal. Not that it’s ever bad, but when you’re paying a premium, you want the best experience possible.

Showing up to Molokini mid morning with a dozen other boats (some with as many as 150 people!) after an hour boat ride just isn’t magical. But don’t worry-I’ve got the scoop on how to see Molokini the best way. Uncrowded.

Guide to Upcountry Maui

Are you planning a trip to Maui? Yippee if you are! You’re probably thinking about swaying palm trees, golden sandy beaches, and exotic marine life and while the land of the hula certainly has all of that, it has much, much more. The vast majority of space on Maui isn’t the shoreline where so many visitors flock each year, but rather the “upcountry.”

Stretching to include the cowboy country of Makawao, the farmland of Kula, the eucalyptus forests of Ulupalakua, and the slopes of Haleakala, exploring upcountry Maui (including the lavender farm Maui) will give you a different perspective of life on the honeymooner’s isle. This is were the people live and if you spend a day or two here you’ll understand why.

Driving the Road to Hana, Maui

UPDATE: For real time coverage of my latest road to Hana trip with geotags, videos, and pictures of food truck menus, watch the “Road to Hana” highlight on my Instagram account (@hula.land).

Maui’s Road to Hana is one of the most famous (or infamous) drives in the world and in my opinion is the #1 don’t miss thing to do on Maui.

What makes this drive so special? The Road to Hana is over 50 miles along Maui’s rugged north shore and east side with 600+ tight turns and about 50 one-lane bridges. Sound fun? It is! While it has the reputation among many as being a hair raisingly dangerous adventure, driving the Road to Hana is certainly a once in a lifetime adventure but not nearly as treacherous as many make it out to be.

I’ve driven the Road to Hana at least a half dozen times. I’ve done it by myself, with a car full (including a baby in a car seat!), in a Jeep, in a sedan, and even in a full sized pickup. I’ve even done the backside of the Road to Hana (the road past Hana) many times! I’m pulling together everything I’ve learned driving the Road to Hana from the very best stops to make to tips about what to expect. So…here we go!

What to Expect

I’ve already mentioned the 600+ sharp turns and 50+ single lane bridges so you probably already have a pretty harrowing image in your head right? Don’t worry, it’s really not so bad! The entire road from Paia to Hana (and even beyond) is entirely paved and two lanes. The bridges are not two lanes, however there’s an understood rule of letting 6-7 cars on either side pass at a time. In general, while the road is very winding, it’s relatively flat and there are very few drop offs (and there are guard rails protecting the few you will find).

What you can expect along the Road to Hana is plenty of beauty. You’ll see colorful, lush vegetation, wide sweeping views and so many waterfalls. Perhaps the most important thing to understand about driving the Road to Hana is that it’s about the journey, not the destination. Hana itself isn’t much to speak of. It’s a quiet little town with a gas station, a general store, and not much else. So this drive is less about “hurry up and get to Hana” and more about enjoying the adventure.

Now, on to the good stuff.

Stops on the Road to Hana

North shore spots: The Road to Hana officially begins in Paia (a cute little town on the north shore), but don’t plan on spending much time at any spots in the Paia/Haiku area on the day you do the Road to Hana. This includes exploring Paia town, stopping at Ho’okipa overlook, or hiking to Twill Falls. These are all things you should do, but do them on another day. Getting to the north shore from Kihei or Lahaina isn’t all that far. You’ll need the FULL day to see all of the highlights on the eastern side of the island. So grab breakfast in Paia, pick up a picnic lunch, fill up your gas tank, and hit the road!

10 Condos on Kauai Under $100/Night

The most difficult part of planning a Hawaiian vacation for me is deciding where to stay. While I love luxurious beach resorts as much as the next girl, most of my trips to Hawaii tend to be pretty active (especially Kauai!), and it just doesn’t make sense to pay an arm and a leg to stay at a fancy place when I’ll be spending most of my days hiking in Waimea Canyon or boating down the Napali Coast. But…sometimes I like a little more comfort than a budget hotel provides. Luckily, I’ve figured out the perfect way to save some cash and still get amazing amenities by staying in a condo or vacation rental!

Hawaii has a great variety of accommodation options, which makes it the perfect place to try out a vacation rental. Since Hawaii is a major vacation destination, there are of course MANY condos to choose from but besides condos, Hawaii has a ton of “ohanas.” Ohana means family (any Lilo and Stitch fans out there???) and in Hawaii the term is applied to separate living units located on the same property as the main house. Many homes in Hawaii are divided up into multiple spaces (each with its own private entrance, bathroom, kitchenette, etc.) while some have a guest cottage on the property. Because so many homes are configured this way, it’s easy to find a private apartment or cottage on the same property with a local host.

There are several ways you’ll save money on a trip to Oahu by staying in a condo or vacation rental. The biggest way you’ll save money is that it’s soooo much cheaper than staying at a resort or hotel. On many islands you can find condos or ohanas either right on or just a block or two from the beach. Plus, resorts can get expensive really fast if you have more than two adults staying in a room. Rental units are perfect for larger parties who can rent an entire house or multi bedroom condo and split the cost. Another big benefit that rentals offer is the full kitchen (or kitchenette depending on what you book). Having a place to cook some meals and a fridge to store snacks and drinks can really save you a lot.

What should you look for in a vacation rental?

Before you start looking around for specific condos or rentals, it’s best to have a general idea of where you want to stay. If you’re not very familiar with Kauai, you should read this post to get the lay of the is(land) and decide which area you’d most like to stay.

Consider what you need. What’s important to you? Are you looking for a specific location near a certain beach or resort area? Do you need a full kitchen? Reliable Wi-Fi? A full house or just studio? Be clear about what you want before you start searching.

9 Condos on Oahu under $100/Night

A trip to Hawaii can be a once in a lifetime experience, but wow can it be hard settling on a good place to stay! If you’re on a budget and trying to avoid paying resort prices, or you’re just looking for a little something different (maybe a more local experience?) then a condo or vacation rental on Oahu is perfect for you!

What should you look for in a vacation rental?

Before you start looking around for specific condos or rentals, it’s best to have a general idea of where you want to stay. If you’re not very familiar with Oahu, you should read this post to get the lay of the is(land) and decide which area you’d most like to stay. But before you start looking, you should know that by far the bulk of accommodations are located in Waikiki (a neighborhood of Honolulu), and Oahu just passed legislation that limits the rentals in “local” parts of the island. More on that below.

Read reviews. Before you even consider staying at a property, you should read up on what people who have stayed there have to say. Remember, you’ll only hear the good points from the host but reviews usually give a much more honest story. And when I’m weeding through listings, I also put a lot of weight into the photographs provided. If the photos look professional, it probably means that the owner runs their vacation rental in a professional manner and that is a indication that it’s a good place to stay.

Ask plenty of questions. When you’re seriously considering staying at a specific property, you should correspond with the owner and ask them any questions you may have.

Count the extra costs. Be sure to factor in any security deposits, cleaning fees, and booking fees.

Know the cancellation policy. Each property and owner may have different terms so know what they are before you commit.

Hawaii

What to Expect

Stops on the Road to Hana

What should you look for in a vacation rental?

What should you look for in a vacation rental?

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